The Asahi Shimbun – February 15, 2016 – “Explore Unfamiliar Japan” is a regional tourism catchphrase and what better place to do this exploration than the Oki Islands in Shimane Prefecture?
These picturesque, remote islands are where you can discover unspoilt rural scenery, witness amazing nature, enjoy fascinating culture and meet kindhearted islanders. This is the “real Japan,” which is something much harder to find in the hustle and bustle of many big cities and towns on the mainland. The Oki Islands is where I now live and call home, along with around 20,000 other people and several thousand cows, horses and “tanuki” Japanese raccoon dogs.
This group of four large inhabited islands–Dogo, Nishinoshima, Chiburijima and Nakanoshima–and 180 smaller uninhabited islands and rocky outcrops, are one of the treasures of the Sea of Japan and are part of the Daisen-Oki National Park.
Oki is divided into two main areas–Dogo island (Okinoshima town) and the three Dozen islands (Nishinoshima town, Ama town and Chibu village). You can discover firsthand the connections between the land and the people who live here as you experience dramatic sea-cliff landscapes created by Mother Nature, ancient shrines, festivals and many traditions dating back hundreds of years, as well as a unique ecosystem of flora and fauna. These special features have been recognized by UNESCO with the islands joining the UNESCO Global Geoparks Network in 2013.
ISLAND HISTORY
The history of these islands is long and complex. Obsidian (a valuable rock used to make tools in the Stone Age) was exported from Dogo island as far back as 30,000 years ago and the islands were mentioned in the oldest written chronicles of Japan, the Kojiki and Nihon-Shoki (8th century). The area was designated as “Islands of Exile” between the 7th and 19th centuries with nobles and emperors being banished here and bringing with them sophisticated culture from the mainland to share with the islanders.
An advanced crop rotation method known as “makihata” was adopted to make the most out of the rough land by rotating crops with cattle. Horses and cows continue to be raised on the islands today, with Oki Beef being a popular brand of meat in Tokyo and a special treat for tourists who visit Nakanoshima island and Dogo island.
During the Edo Period (1630-1868) the islands flourished as a port of call for trading ships on the Kitamaebune shipping route. Vessels would trade their goods in Oki while waiting for a good wind to take them on. The sailors brought music, traditions and goods from around Japan and other parts of Asia to the islands. At the end of the 19th century almost all of the temples in Oki were destroyed during a violent upsurge in anti-Buddhism sentiment throughout Japan. While a few Buddhist temples remain, Shinto has a very important place in Oki culture with around 150 shrines on the islands. Writer Lafcadio Hearn visited the Oki Islands in 1892 and wrote in his novel “Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan” how surprised he was by modern Oki; with other visitors also noting the strange habits of islanders such as chewing on fried chicken and using sun parasols. This interesting history has helped shape many of the traditions and way of life that can be seen today, something the local people are very proud of and happy to share with visitors.
The Nishinoshima Tourist Office, alongside the overall Oki Islands Tourism Association, has been working on encouraging international visitors to these islands.
Since 2013, Lonely Planet Japan has featured the Oki Islands as a “Top 10: Off the Beaten Track” destination encouraging travelers to “escape to the nature and culture-rich Oki Islands.” From 2015 Le Guide Bleu (a French travel guide) has given Oki the highest rating of three stars for the splendid scenery and culture of the islands, especially the Kuniga Coast along Nishinoshima island.
Many travelers looking for off-the-beaten destinations are recommending the Oki Islands on social media. With much praise, the Oki Islands have seen a steady increase in the number of foreign visitors over the last few years. But don’t worry, Oki is not a huge tourist trap so you will not have to fight your way through crowds of visitors. Wherever you travel, you will be greeted with a friendly “konnichiwa” and if you are lucky, some “omiyage” (gifts) from the sea!
FISHING
The main industry here is fishing, with many local seafood products being well-known throughout Japan. You can sample “iwa-gaki” rock oysters (first successfully farmed in Nishinoshima), “matsuba-kani” snow crab, “sazae” turban snails, “hiyougi-gai” rainbow scallops as well as many types of tasty raw, baked and steamed fish fresh from the sea at one of the local eateries, or better still, at your accommodation. A large number of people own their own boat or fish from the wharf during the day. A local fishmonger once joked to me, “Fish is not something you buy; it is something you get given or catch yourself!” When you visit, maybe you can try catching your own dinner?
SPRING TO AUTUMN
Enjoy flowers and festivals in the spring, beaches and water sports in the summer, and hiking in the autumn. Visit the western coasts for radiant sunsets, drive or hike through farmlands in Nishinoshima and Chiburijima, cycle through the sleepy fishing villages around Saigo Port, take part in a local festival or climb to the highest point on a mountain and marvel at the spectacular scenery. The winter months in Oki can be quite harsh, so it is best to visit between April and October. Why not escape to the Oki Islands and discover this unfamiliar place for yourself?
The islands are not packed with 24-hour convenience stores and neon lights (although there are a few pachinko parlors to keep the fishermen happy), but what you will find is a group of impressive islands where the local people warmly welcome visitors from around Japan and the world.
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Access to Oki is by ferry or fast ferry (daily services from Matsue, Shimane Prefecture and Sakaiminato, Tottori Prefecture) or by airplane with Japan Airlines from Izumo Airport or Osaka-Itami Airport. There are some simple “minshuku” bed and breakfasts, “ryokan” Japanese-style inns and hotels on each island, but they can be full at certain times of the year, so make sure you book in advance. If you need more information or assistance finding accommodation send an e-mail, in English, to info@nkk-oki.com.
Nicola Jones, from Tauranga City, New Zealand, graduated from The University of Waikato, taught as a Japanese language teacher in Wellington, worked on the JET Program as a Coordinator for International Relations (CIR) in Shimane Prefecture, and is now employed by the Nishinoshima Tourism Association, Oki Islands. Through her work and also in her free time she has traveled extensively in Japan. Her current interests are stand-up paddle boarding, studying Japanese cooking and encouraging more people to visit the spectacular off-the-beaten-track destination the Oki Islands.
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